Farmers markets were once an economic necessity; now they are an institution and an opening to observe a community.
In Asheville, North Carolina, one of my favorites was hosted by a brewery. Fittingly. In Atlanta, Georgia, Saturday mornings feature an urban but Southern market on the grounds of a center devoted to the work of an honored humanitarian. In Brisbane, Queensland, one of the best markets is held by one of the walkways that characterize the city along the Brisbane River. It sits comfortably.
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A Rebirth
The River Arts District Farmers Market in Asheville is now held on the grounds of the New Belgium brewery. The re-opening of that market in a location near the River Arts District was a profound and comforting development. On September 27, 2024, Hurricane Helene hit Asheville and brought almost 14 inches of rain over a three-day period. The French Broad River, which runs through Asheville, and the smaller Swannanoa River both flooded. The devastation was widespread. This included the expansive River Arts District (RAD), which was almost completely destroyed, and the minimal structures that housed the Wednesday afternoon RAD farmers market. The devastation was physical and emotional.
The rebirth of the market at the nearby brewery, also built on the riverbanks, reflected the continued revival of the city and the greater region. Locals and visitors were able to be part of a greater community again. Farmers and vendors from across the Western North Carolina area were rebuilding businesses. Trying to bring some normalcy. Spring brought ramps, a wild allium, a bit of an onion/garlic in one plant, foraged from the local Appalachian mountains. Summer brought a mix of traditional southern specialties along with a strong mix of Asian greens.
The rebirth of the market at the nearby brewery, also built on the riverbanks, reflected the continued revival of the city and the greater region. Locals and visitors were able to be part of a greater community again. Farmers and vendors from across the Western North Carolina area were rebuilding businesses. Trying to bring some normalcy. Spring brought ramps, a wild allium, a bit of an onion/garlic in one plant, foraged from the local Appalachian mountains. Summer brought a mix of traditional southern specialties along with a strong mix of Asian greens.
The atmosphere of the market is laid-back Asheville. A broad flat play area, music, conversation and normalcy. A place where you are able to: buy your weekly produce, sit in an Adirondack chair, enjoy a beer, all while appreciating the strength and kindness of a community that had been through something together.
Reflective of History
Located in Atlanta’s civil-rights landscape is the Freedom Farmers Market. The market is every Saturday morning at the Carter Center, a non-profit started by President Jimmy Carter. The Center’s motto is “Waging Peace. Fighting Disease. Building Hope.” The Center is located on the John Lewis Freedom Parkway with the ML King historical site nearby. This area, known to the world as the center of the city’s contribution to the civil rights movement, is the backdrop to this market.
Atlanta promotes itself as “The City in a Forest.” This market is held in the middle of the parking lot of the Center’s grounds. The impression, though, is not a parking lot – it is a forest. The lot is laid out between large trees and is well shaded.
Four rows of vendors are laid out in front of you. Most are small or medium vendors offering a variety of products. Although it is an urban market, produce from the South’s agrarian past is prominent. Collards in the winter, okra and bushels of tomatoes in the summer. Apples in the fall. But time has moved. There is plenty of chard and kale, heirloom tomatoes are everywhere. The words organic and free-range are plentiful. In the summer the variety of crops available is impressive. The vendors are well versed in their crafts. Many list their farm locations as not being far away from Athens (itself only 80 or so miles away) and The University of Georgia – home of the state’s agricultural school.
Much of the Old South is seen in the produce. Likewise, much of the New South is seen in the produce. The vendors themselves present a different world. One vendor uses a solar-powered freezer protecting his products. The setup is a stop for the curious. At the market, discussions and efforts for progressive causes are presented in a low-pressure manner, reminding you of where you are. The market reflects the city, and the city reflects the New South.
Saturdays on the River
Brisbane has a number of interesting markets. But only one was featured in a Bluey episode, making it a reasonable claim for being called the iconic market. The West End market at Davies Park is iconic. The park sits beside the Brisbane River. The market lasts from 6 in the morning until 2 in the afternoon with hundreds strolling up and down the Brisbane River pathways to get there. Others arrive by city transportation, which offers extra stops on Saturday. A few drive and park in a few spots by the river.
Unlike markets I have experienced in the past, there are a limited number of growers there. Instead, there is a significant number of resellers, effectively grocery stores with low overhead. Granted the produce in Australia and especially Queensland is fresh and has a short distribution system. This is common in Australian markets. The direct connection is missing in these vendors, but they do make up for it in quality and variety.
But there are direct farmers/vendors to be found. One of my personable favorites is known to say, “If you don’t want to wait in line, don’t buy from me because I am going to talk to everyone.” His warning is not hyperbole; at my first visit he was excited to introduce me to the whole family. While the line waited. The upside is you will learn exactly what day your potatoes left the ground.
There is a much larger collection of prepared food vendors offering a broad variety of foods for purchase and consumption on the grounds. Scents of spices and grilled meats are pervasive. The vendor offering grilled German sausages, featured on the Bluey episode, is right in the middle. And given it is Australia: coffee vendors – in fact, many coffee vendors. It is more than a farmers market; it is an outdoor food-centric marketplace. In a city accustomed to using public spaces, many treat the area like an extension of their homes. They purchase, they sit, they talk, they relax. By the river they linger: very social, very communal, very relaxing – very Australian.
